An instructor's gloved hand closes over a client's grip on the head of an ice axe, correcting it, with the glacier falling away out of focus behind.

Yala Peak

Be graded honestly and say thank you

Country
NepalLangtang Valley, Nepal
Duration
12–14 days incl. courseSeason Three
Grade
Technical 3AGet High scale
Max altitude
5,520 m18,110 ft
Daily activity
Approx 6–8 hours, 12 on summit day
Season
Oct–Nov, Apr–May
Skill required
Basic mountaineering course
Months on the plan
One monthof 24 planned

Step 04Yala Peak5,520 m / 18,110 ft

Altitude profile: 12 steps, 1,400 m to 8,849 m at Mount EverestA line chart of every step in order. Step 1, 12 Days of Silence, is the lowest at 1,400 m / 4,593 ft, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal. Every step is higher than the one before it, up to step 12, Mount Everest, 8,849 m / 29,032 ft. Everything above 8,000 m is the death zone, marked in red: step 11, Cho Oyu; step 12, Mount Everest. Each point is a link to that step. You are on step 4, Yala Peak, 5,520 m / 18,110 ft.

When was the last time a person with nothing to gain from you told you the truth about your ability at something?

What you are walking into

Yala is a straightforward snow peak four days from the nearest road, almost always climbed as the practical exam at the end of a basic mountaineering course. Nothing about it is hard, which is exactly the point: this is the right place to be obviously, publicly, unflatteringly bad at something new.

The days before the summit are spent on a training glacier — walking in crampons without shredding your own gaiters, holding an axe so that it still works once you are already falling, and stopping yourself on a slope while sliding backwards on your stomach, which is the position you will genuinely be in when it happens.

What it takes out of you

You have spent years surrounded by people whose income depends on your good mood. The summit is worth almost nothing next to the twelve days before it, in which a stranger grades you accurately and you do not fire him.

This is also the first thing on this list you will be able to do that you could not do before. Hold on to that. It has been a very long time since you learned anything.

The logistics

Duration
12–14 days incl. course
Skill required
Basic mountaineering course
Season
Oct–Nov, Apr–May

The climb profile

Left, elevation only: no horizontal axis, so its width means nothing. Right, air: bar length is the one thing here that does.

Climb profile: Yala Kharka base camp at 4,600 m to Summit at 5,520 m, 920 metres of verticalA vertical elevation chart with no horizontal axis. The scale runs from 4,400 m at the foot to 5,800 m at the top. Yala Kharka base camp is marked at 4,600 m and Summit at 5,520 m, a difference of 920 metres. No intermediate camps are sourced for this one. The elevation part of the chart has no horizontal axis because the horizontal distance from Yala Kharka base camp to Summit is not published by any source we could find. Its width carries no meaning. Cumulative ascent over the route is not sourced and is not shown. To the right, a bar hangs off each of those elevations and its length is that altitude's share of the air at sea level, which a dashed bar across the full track marks as 100%: Yala Kharka base camp 58%; Summit 52%. The bars shorten as the elevation rises.
Base camp
Yala Kharka base camp, 4,600 msource
Summit
Summit, 5,520 msource
Vertical, base camp to summit
920 mthe difference of the two elevations above, nothing more
Horizontal distance
Not yet sourcedNo operator route description, alpine club record or mountaineering reference we could find states it for this route. It is not estimated here.
Cumulative ascent
Not yet sourcedThe up-and-down of the whole route, which is more than the vertical above. Nobody publishes it for any of the twelve.

The shakiest summit figure on the ladder. 5,520 m is the operator and database figure; Wikipedia says 5,500 m and Much Better Adventures says 5,550 m. No survey source was reachable. Distance is quoted as “9 kilometers in total” (which does not say one way) and as a 16 km summit day — nearly 2x apart, so neither is used.

The highest point is the summit, 5,520 m, where the air is 52% of what it is at sea level. Everything you carry gets there. The air does not.

The part we will not lie about

Take the course before the peak and treat it as the main event rather than a formality on the way to a photograph. Nepal, Chamonix, Scotland in winter — the venue matters far less than being assessed by somebody with nothing to sell you.

Looking straight down between crampon points bitten into grey-blue glacier ice, a coiled rope and crevasses beyond.
The first time the ground stops being ground.

Who you do it with

Your first summit, and the danger is that it goes well. A guide congratulates you. An elder brother tells you what it actually was — one small mountain, and eleven still in front of you.

What the word means, and where it came from

$2,400,000 at the plan's pace — $100,000 a month, charged monthly, for as long as it takes. All twelve steps. One client at a time.

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A white helicopter standing on braided grey river flats below a hanging icefall in a broad glaciated valley.
Standing on the gravel flats, where a braided meltwater river crosses the valley floor.